the Sonoma County guide
what goop got right, and what goop got wrong
Earlier this week, I received an email in my inbox from goop itself: The Sonoma Valley Guide. What a treat. Those who know me know that I perceive myself as an extension of Sonoma County, so essentially, this guide was about me. What isn’t, in the end?
Gwyneth Paltrow describes the Sonoma Valley as “a smattering of rustic farms, idyllic small towns, and scenic vineyards”. Isn’t that nice? Here is my guide to Sonoma County, from the roadside strawberries to the quintessential coastal bluffs.
what to do
Each town in Sonoma County offers its own selection of pastoral charm and uplifting outings. Take Sebastopol, the hippy older sister, known for its summer apple festival, and home to The Barlow.
No matter the occasion, it’s easy to spend a day in Sebastopol. First stop is the roadside fruit stand— get a flat of strawberries, you won’t regret it.
Once you make it through the one-way streets of downtown, the scenery changes to rolling hills and local farms. Wait to turn off until you hit Bohemian Highway. On your left is Wild Flour Bread. The line is probably pretty long, but it is well worth the wait. Try one of their many fresh-baked hard crust loaves, seasonal scones, or a famous sticky bun. The most special part of Wild Flour is their garden, which is open to the public to walk through and admire. From Wild Flour Bread, it is only a short distance to Bodega Highway, where you have your pick of beaches to spend the rest of the afternoon.
On your way back, make one more stop in Downtown Sebastopol: Florence Avenue. Here, local artist Patrick Amiot has created his own garden of junk sculptures throughout the neighborhood. On Florence Avenue, a fisherman made out of used car parts lives next door to a tin-man Lionel Messi and a dog in a lopsided rocket-ship. Each creation is more humorous and whimsical than the next.
If you’re not too tuckered out after a walk down Florence Avenue, there’s only one more destination. Screamin’ Mimi’s. This pink ice cream shop is a Sonoma County favorite, and for good reason. (It’s also Judy Moody’s favorite, if you don’t want to take my word for it.)
If you plan to head to the coast during your stay, be sure to check the tides beforehand. If you are lucky enough to be around during a full moon, you absolutely must spend some time tide-pooling. I recommend Pinnacle Gulch or Shell Beach.
Many of Sonoma County’s beaches are adjacent to campgrounds, as well. Wright’s Beach is perhaps the largest available space along Bodega Highway, but my friends and I have made a habit of driving further south to Stinson Beach. (Stinson Beach, is, of course in Marin County, but I don’t really care.) Looming above Stinson Beach is Mt. Tam, home to a couple woodsy and secluded campgrounds. The location can’t get much better— from either campground, it’s an easy six-ish mile hike down to Stinson Beach, and a short drive into Mill Valley, where you can grab dinner at Sol Food and return to your tent before dark. Here’s the catch: Mt. Tam campsites are first-come, first-served, so plan ahead and arrive early as to not miss your spot.
The hike from Mt. Tam to Stinson Beach is a favorite, but there are a variety of equally-impressive hiking trails through Sonoma County along the dramatic coastlines and inland chaparral hills. These are some of my favorites.
Frog Pond: Frog Pond is (unsurprisingly) a pond that teems with frogs and newts in the late winter and early springtime. It’s not much of a hike to get there; it’s less than a mile from the nearest parking lot, but it is a feature in a network of trails at Annadel State Park. Pick any direction from Frog Pond, and you might reach The Couch (a large stone couch that overlooks all of Santa Rosa and beyond), Lake Ilsanjo (a favorite for summer swims and fishing), or the mythical waterfall that few have stumbled upon. No matter where you end up hiking, it will be worth your while.
Coast Trail: Again! This is technically in Marin County. Again! I don’t really care. The Coast Trail is one of many intersecting trails within the Point Reyes National Seashore. You have your choice of trailheads, depending on how long or strenuous of a hike you are in for. Each one will take you through temperate rainforests (banana slug land) to coastal plains. I like to start at the Bear Valley Visitor Center, take a couple magic mushrooms in the parking lot, and finish at Kelham Beach. This beach is only accessible by the Coast Trail, and it features a small waterfall and some rocky caves to explore.
Armstrong Woods: You can’t visit NorCal without walking through the Coast Redwoods. Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve is the best place to experience the majesty of these trees. The hikes range from short-flat-walk to steep-long-strenuous, so there’s something for everyone to enjoy. There are also lots of spaces for picnics, including some barbecue grills you can reserve ahead of time.
Kelham Beach via the Coast Trail
what to eat & drink
Sonoma County is a well-known destination for beer and wine, but its foodie selection is just as good. I’ve already mentioned a few of my favorites, but there’s a lot more to experience.
casual bites
La Fondita: A village of taco trucks awaits you down Sebastopol Road in West Santa Rosa. My personal favorite is La Fondita, an orange truck on the corner of Sebastopol Road and West Avenue, but I won’t take it personally if you go across the street to El Roy’s or Mitote Food Park— you really can’t go wrong.
Amy’s Drive Thru: There’s not a lot of reasons to spend time in Rohnert Park. (Sorry.) Graton Casino is one reason, and Amy’s Drive Thru is the other. It’s American Fast Food, but make it vegetarian and even tastier. I didn’t believe those two could go hand-in-hand before I tried The Amy, their version of a double-double. I order it with spicy sauce and grilled onions, and get a non-dairy coffee milkshake on the side. Yum!
El Molino Central: This is one that goop got right. El Molino Central serves fresh and seasonal tamales, tostadas, ceviche, fish tacos, and more.
La Fondita
a little nicer
Willi’s Wine Bar: All of the Stark Restaurants in Sonoma County are excellent, but Willi’s Wine Bar might be my favorite. The menu features small plates perfect for sharing. My favorites are the arugula endive salad and the barbecue duck polenta. Don’t skip dessert— the peanut butter mousse is excellent.
SingleThread: It’s a splurge, but it’s worth it. The bulk of their menu ingredients come from their twenty-four acre farm located just adjacent to the restaurant. Their kaiseki-inspired dishes are plated artistically, beginning with a first course showcasing the seasonal bounty. Oh, and did I mention it has three Michelin Stars?
Valette Restaurant: Located right off of the Healdsburg Square, Valette Restaurant boasts a small menu centered around local farm-owners and winemakers. The menu rotates seasonally, and never fails to impress.
Little Saint: Dare I say best espresso martini I’ve had? Plus, it’s dairy-free! In fact, the entire restaurant is plant-based, emphasizing a local farm-based ethos that does not sacrifice flavor. The interior has a down-the-rabbit-hole whimsy to it that manages to strike a balance between elevated and relaxed.
somewhere in between
Spinster Sisters: Hidden away in the Santa Rosa Art District, Spinster Sisters serves some of the best comfort food in town. With a spacious outdoor seating garden and lots of natural light, it is a perfect place for brunch with girlfriends.
something to drink
HopMonk Tavern: HopMonk Tavern has a great selection of local beers on tap and an equally great small-bites menu, but what really makes the place special is
Golden State Cider: Yum! I cannot say enough good things about Golden State Cider (and not just because I am allergic to beer). Their taproom serves seasonal flavors not sold in stores, and hosts trivia nights once a week. Plus, they are located in The Barlow and serve food from adjacent restaurants like Acre Pizza. The flights are generous, so make sure you have a ride home or a friend to help you drink!
Flowers Vineyards and Winery: I have to include a winery in this list, don’t I? While I haven’t actually been to House of Flowers, per se, it is at the top of my SoCo bucket list. Here’s what Gwyneth Paltrow has to say via goop.
“Never mind that grounds are airy and lush, with cute corners to tuck into for private chats. The wine itself (mostly pinot noir and chardonnay) is complex.”